Viscose Under the Microscope: Innovation, Controversy, and the Future of Semi-Synthetic Fibers

Viscose fiber spinning production

Published: July 30, 2025 | By Quantum Server Networks

Once heralded as a miracle fiber for its softness, versatility, and natural origins, viscose—also known as rayon—now finds itself at the center of environmental scrutiny. Despite its wood-based source, this semi-synthetic fiber’s production process involves complex chemical steps that raise sustainability concerns. In a recent article from AZoM, the evolution of viscose is explored, examining its industrial appeal, ecological drawbacks, and innovations aiming to make it greener.

What Is Viscose, and Why Has It Become So Popular?

Viscose is a cellulose-based fiber derived from wood pulp—often from fast-growing trees such as eucalyptus, acacia, or bamboo. It sits in a unique category: neither fully natural nor fully synthetic. Its soft texture, dyeability, breathability, and drapeability have made it a staple in textiles used for everything from socks and shirts to luxury dresses and bathrobes.

Unlike polyester, viscose is made from renewable biomass. But unlike cotton or linen, viscose undergoes heavy chemical processing that transforms natural cellulose into a usable filament, raising concerns about its environmental credentials.

The Complex Chemistry Behind Viscose

The transformation from tree to textile is not as green as its natural origin suggests. The production process starts by extracting cellulose from wood pulp, which is treated with sodium hydroxide (NaOH) to produce alkali cellulose. This is shredded, aged, and reacted with carbon disulfide (CS2) to form cellulose xanthate—a highly viscous solution that gives viscose its name.

This mixture is spun into fibers using a sulfuric acid bath that regenerates cellulose filaments. While the resulting threads are soft and breathable, the solvents used, particularly carbon disulfide, are toxic and can cause neurological and reproductive harm in exposed workers. Additionally, emissions and effluents from the process can cause significant environmental damage when not managed in a closed-loop system.

Environmental and Ethical Concerns

According to a 2010 comparative lifecycle assessment, viscose ranks among the most environmentally harmful manmade cellulosic fibers. The issues include:

  • High chemical use: Especially toxic agents like CS2 and sulfur compounds.
  • Land and resource use: Deforestation and monoculture plantations for pulp production.
  • Waste and emissions: Air, water, and soil pollution from poorly managed viscose mills.

These factors have prompted activists and consumers alike to demand more sustainable alternatives or cleaner viscose production methods.

Can Viscose Be Made Sustainable?

In response, some manufacturers are now adopting closed-loop systems that recover and reuse solvents. Advanced facilities can achieve over 90% solvent recovery, drastically reducing emissions. Meanwhile, the industry is exploring alternative feedstocks such as recycled textiles or agricultural waste, potentially enabling circular viscose manufacturing.

Notably, advances in textile recycling have shown that used viscose garments can be reprocessed into fibers almost indistinguishable from those made from virgin wood pulp. This creates the possibility of integrating viscose into the circular economy, where clothing can be recycled without significant loss in quality or comfort.

Balancing Comfort with Responsibility

Despite its challenges, viscose remains difficult to replace. Its tactile advantages and low cost continue to attract widespread use in the fashion and home textile industries. But pressure is mounting for more transparency and greener chemistry.

Brands, regulators, and consumers are now asking: Can viscose shed its environmental baggage and become part of the sustainable fashion movement?

While the answer is still evolving, what’s clear is that materials science will play a pivotal role in the transformation of one of the world’s most ubiquitous semi-synthetic fibers.

Sponsored by PWmat (Lonxun Quantum) – a leading developer of GPU-accelerated materials simulation software for cutting-edge quantum, energy, and semiconductor research. Learn more about our solutions at: https://www.pwmat.com/en

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#Viscose #Rayon #TextileScience #SustainableFashion #CelluloseFibers #GreenChemistry #TextileInnovation #EnvironmentalImpact #MaterialsScience #QuantumServerNetworks #PWmat

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